Monday, November 18, 2019

Sunday, November 17, 2019


Here is a link to an article about how probiotics reduced levels of American Foulbrood infections.  However, before you go buy some consider the following.

 1) Standard practice is to KILL and BURN hives with American Foulbrood (AF).  Since the probiotic did not eradiate the AF you may still need to KILL and burn your hive.
2) In 10 years I have only heard of one (1) case of AF among all ECWBA members and in only in one hive.  The state inspector required this hive be killed and burned.  I don't believe this alternate approach is approved for use in treating AF.  
3) Before you go to expense of using probiotics prophylactically you should consider the expense of the probiotics and the small probability of catching AF.  In other words you should do a cost benefit calculation.
4) The study said probiotics "significantly" increased hive survival.  The value of the term "significantly" was not defined.

Sunday, November 10, 2019


Here is an article describing the chewing behavior developed by feral bees.  Purdue Mite Biter, Mite Mailer, etc. designer bees are also exhibiting this behavior.  There is a better future for the honey bee!  Also note that the article expressly recommends against package bees.

Saturday, November 9, 2019


Here's a nifty gadget.  Only thing is it doesn't determine varroa levels.


THE ECWBA monthly meeting will be held on November 16th at the Caestecker Public Library in Green Lake.  Start time I 9:30AM, but many members arrive early for off topic discussions.

Wednesday, November 6, 2019


Follow the link to information on two classes in early November at Capital Bee Supply in Columbus.    Honey Grading & Labeling and Making Balms and Salves.  Please note the link shows the Honey Grading class to be on September 9th; whereas the actual date is November 9th.


Beekeeping is primarily an outdoor summer activity.  But here in central Wisconsin winter holds sway for roughly 5 months of the year.  What is an enthused beekeeper to do during this long dormant period?


1)      Attend your local bee club meetings.  The other local beekeepers can provide a lot of information to improve your beekeeping in the coming year.

2)      Review the events of the previous year and identify things you can do differently to improve your outcome in the upcoming year. 

3)      Read about beekeeping.  There are two beekeeping magazines; American Bee Journal and Bee Culture.  In addition, there are numerous beekeeping books.  NOTE: The ECWBA donated to the local WiNNEFOX library system about 30 different beekeeping books.  These should all be available through your local library.  See the RESOURCE section of this blog for a list of the titles.

4)      Make a personal beekeeping plan for 2020.

5)      Inspect equipment that is in storage.  Conduct repairs as required.  Replace old brood foundation that is more than 10 years old.  Over time the brood cocoons built up inside the cell and the result is a smaller worker bee.

6)      Assemble and paint new equipment if you will be expanding your apiary in 2020.

7)      Consider building a nuc box or swarm box.

8)      Build a supply of spare frames with new foundation.  

9)      Make up sugar patties for use as a winter emergency food supply for your hives.  


1)      Periodically monitor the status of your hives.  Listening for the hum of the bees with a stethoscope will let you know if they are dead or alive.

2)      Add emergency sugar patties to the top of hives to prevent starvation. 

Friday, November 1, 2019


November is starting out with snow on the ground; which is a bit early even for central Wisconsin.  Looking at the long range forecast it looks like flying days for the bees won’t occur again until spring.  Yesterday I listened to each hive for activity and brushed snow away from the entrances.  Brrr!

The snow will trigger field mice to look for warm winter quarters.  Don’t let that place bee your hives.  Get the entrance reducer switched to the one (1) inch opening.  Use of mouse guards is optional.  

Temperature will be low enough that hive wraps can now be installed if you are inclined in that direction.  As I have stated previously, I saw no difference in survival rates for either wrapped or unwrapped hives over a period of 5 years.  However, I did put wraps on 4 hives that are next to open water and totally unprotected from the winter winds.  

In my apiary one (1) hive has already bit the dust.  It was totally robbed out.  No honey in either of the deeps.  I suspect it had gone queenless back in September.  According to my notes when I had graded my hives on October 1st this hive was still well populated, but I graded as medium strength, not strong.  Any mites in this hive probably hitched a ride on the robber bees and moved to a new hive.  Luckily, I had treated this hive with oxalic vapor in both September and October.   I guess I am already out of the running for the ECWBA winter survival trophy. 

I did peek in 5 hives.  In four (4) hives the cluster was in the top brood box and in one (1) it was in the bottom box. 

With the shortening daylight and colder temperatures all queens should have stopped laying.  Also, by this time most brood should have emerged.  All mites should therefore now be phoretic (not hidden inside the brood cells).  Therefore, next week I am planning on one last oxalic acid vapor treatment.  Based on most recommendations I have seen I will wait to the air temperature reaches 40F.  Above this temperature the cluster expands and lets the oxalic acid vapor reach the inner bees in the cluster.  Mite-free equals virus-free and bodes well for good hive winter survival.

My next and final task will be to add a spacer to the top of al hives to provide space for emergency sugar provisions.  I do this in December when I am sure the bees will be in a tight cluster.   After this last action I can only stand back and watch things unfold.   I try to not to get my expectations too high.  Back in the “good old days” (pre-varroa), winter hive losses averaged around 15% (85% survival), so if I get close to that I will be a happy beekeeper. 

Monday, October 21, 2019


Looking at the long range weather forecast it appears we will be getting repeated nights with temperatures below freezing (32F/0C) in the next two weeks.  This will trigger the field mice to begin looking for a warm winter home.  If you don't want your bee hive to become this home it is time to put on your mouse guards.  Over the course of a winter mice can do a lot of damage to a hive; chewed frames, destroyed foundation, urine smell, feces, etc.  A mouse guard can save you a lot of repair work and expense come spring.  At the same time you should also position your entrance reducer so its smallest opening is controlling the movement of the bees.

The mouse guard can simply be metal hardware cloth with a 1/4 inch size.  Larger sizes may permit a mouse to squeeze through.  Mesh sizes down to 5 holes per inch can be used.  Anything smaller, such as 6 or 8 holes per inch may prevent movement of the bees through the mesh and should NOT be used.  A more expensive alternate is a metal mouse guard procured from your favorite bee equipment supplier.

Saturday, October 12, 2019


Next Saturday, October 19th, will be the ECWBA monthly club meeting.  It will be held at the Caestecker Public Library in Green Lake.  Official start time is 9:30am although many members arrive around 9:00am for informal discussions. Honey tasting will be one activity.  Winter preparedness will be another.  See you there.

ONE LAST TIME by beekeeper Fred

This will be the last time this blog will talk about varroa control in 2019.  By this time you should know that good varroa control is critical to good winter survival.  

Here is a link with two videos about using oxalic acid in late October.  Personally, I would not use utilize oxalic acid dribble this late in the year since the cold oxalic acid/water solution could chill the bees.  Since I had seen brood in early October I plan my last treatment to be in early November.

Friday, October 11, 2019


At ECWBA meetings all year long we have harped on keeping varroa levels down.   Now is the time for the payoff.  The following report shows how low varroa levels also keep the Deformed Wing Virus infection levels low.  The result will be good winter survival.  We hope you did your due diligence and performed your mite control in late July/early August.  

Monday, October 7, 2019


Sustainable—from sustain—to keep going, prolong, to hold up under

What is sustainable beekeeping?  Having a sustainable beekeeping operation can be considered from several viewpoints.  Probably, the first is financial.  Does the value of your honey harvest offset the cost of producing it?  Second, are you perpetually buying replacement stock or are you able to sustain your operation by making splits to replace your losses. 

A sustainable operation has the added benefit of not importing and more rapidly spreading the bee parasites ( ie varroa, hive beetles, etc) and viruses known to be spread during the annual almond pollination.  In addition, by only using Wisconsin bees, you will be helping develop a localized bee that is adapted to the american midwestern environment.   The many subspecies of the European honeybee evolved as the European honeybee adapted to local conditions.  The same evo;ution would occur here if allowed.    The weather and plant environment of Wisconsin is distinctly different from sources of queen bees (ie. California, Texas, Georgia, etc.).  Wisconsin (ie the Midwest) would naturally evolve its own locally adapted bee if not continually swamped out by the package bee genetics.

Most hobbyist beekeepers quit the hobby because their bees do not make it through winter and they must purchase replacements every spring.  It is a known fact that overwintered bees will usually produce more honey than new packages or nucs.  The hobbyist utilizing packages or nucs therefore starts at a disadvantage in trying to make the hobby pay or even break even.  Also, nothing is more discouraging than seeing your bees die during the winter.  Since probably 80% of winter losses are due to varroa and the related viruses, the first step to sustainability is to copy the varroa control practices of a successful beekeeper.  Presently, there are only two ways to control mites.  Chemical control (natural or synthetic) or by interrupting the mite’s reproductive cycle (See the March 1, 2018 blog article on natural mite control).  Both methods work.  Choose one method and apply it religiously.  If you don’t your bees will die and you will probably give up beekeeping after a few years of buying replacement bees.    Although there are designer bees (VSH, mite biters, Minnesota hygentic, etc.) none of these has been shown to control mites sufficiently to prevent winter colony demise without additional interventions.

Once you master the art of controlling mites and getting your bees through winter.  These “survivor” bees will be more in sync with their Wisconsin environment.  When you continually buy new bees from out of state (mainly California and the southern US) you are importing bees that a genetically better matched to our environment as mentioned above.  In addition, you can then also purchase specialty queens better suited to handle varroa and improve the genetics of your bees. 

Even under the best of conditions, all beekeepers lose bees throughout the year, but mainly during the winter.  So there is always a need for replacement stock.  The next step in sustainable beekeeping is to raise your own replacement stock.  Actually, the raising of replacement stock is easier than the effort to control varroa.  There are three basic methods of rearing your own replacement stock; 1) spring splits, 2) fall splits, and 3) summer nucs and 4)winter nucs. 


Now that you have mastered the process of getting your bees through the winter, it is time to raise your own replacement stock.  Beekeepers have traditionally “split” some of their stronger hives in late spring to raise replacements or make “increase”.   Splitting is simply the dividing of a hive into two or more parts with the aim of starting more hives or replacing deadouts.

The objective of the split is to end up with 2 or more new hives.    It is up to the individual beekeeper on how he/she wants to go about it.  The split can be a 50/50 affair or other ratios such as; 30/70 or 30/30/40 or 25/25/25/25.   A 50/50 split is the most commonly used.  Here the brood and honey frames are divided between two new hives evenly.  Obviously, only one hive ends up with the old queen.  A new queen can be installed in the queenless hive or the beekeeper can opt to allow the queenless hive to raise their own queen.  The 30/70 split is used if the beekeeper wants to increase the chances for a honey harvest from the stronger hive (70%).  The larger hive gets the queen and the smaller either a new queen or the option of them rearing a new queen on their own.  The other ratios (30/30/40 or 25/25/25/25) are used if the beekeeper’s goal is a longterm increase in their apiary.  The smaller new hives will take almost the entire summer to grow to full size and probably won’t produce a honey crop in the year of the split.  When planning to make splits be sure to get queens ordered with a delivery date that meets your needs.  

Hives that have survived winter have a natural tendency to swarm.  This can turn out to be a blessing for a beekeeper needing queens.  Instead of the need to repeatedly searching the hive to remove queen cells the beekeeper can instead remove the frames with the queen cells to provide survivor stock queens for splits.  Removing the queen cells will delay or prevent swarming of the original hive. 


Fall splits are usually done in early August.  The population of the hive to be split will be at its maximum before the autumn decline.  Fall splits are usually 50/50 affairs.  Some beekeepers split two hives in a 66/33 fashion.  The two 33% portions are combined.  The queenless portions of these splits are given a new young queen.  These hives will have a large population of forging bees with little to forage in the field.  Therefore, all fall splits are heavily fed sugar syrup immediately.  This gives those excess foragers some useful work to do.  The foragers will rapidly fill frames with syrup for the coming winter.  In addition the syrup will stimulate the hives to start another round of brood rearing to bring the population up to strength prior to winter. 


A nuc is simply a small 4 or 5 frame hive.  Nucs can be easily be started in the spring from a strong hive by simply taking 3 frames of brood containing eggs, uncapped and capped brood plus to undrawn frames of foundation.  Usually the nuc will raise its own queen.   This action has the added benefit of reducing the urge of the strong hive to swarm. 

Over the summer the beekeeper then has available a queen if one is needed for his other hives.  Also over the summer the nuc will expand.  This will provide the beekeeper with another full size hive by fall or maybe a nuc for overwintering.


As stated above all beekeepers lose hives over the winter.  So come spring the beekeepers are in need of replacement bees if they want to keep their operation of the same size.   Beekeepers that utilize the winter nuc concept have found that the winter nucs have the same or slightly better winter survival than their full size hives.  Here is how winter nucs work.

In early August when the hive population is at its peak, the 20 frame hive is split equally between two 5 over 5 nucs.  Each nuc gets half of the brood and half of the honey frames.  Each nuc also gets a new queen.  The new queen is the first advantage the winter nucs have to good survival.   Introduction of the new queen also introduces a short, late summer, brood break.  Brood breaks also result in an interruption of the varroa reproductive cycle.  That is the second plus.

Next the beekeeper is essentially wintering two hives instead of one hive.  Based on probabilities the beekeeper will come out ahead the next spring.  For example, if the beekeeper overwinters 4 hives at 75% survival rate the beekeeper will end up with 3 hives in the spring.  If the beekeeper instead makes 8 winter nucs from those 4 hives and again has 75% survival the beekeeper ends up with 6 hives!

From the example above you may end up with more nucs than you need or want.  Think PACKAGES!  Sell the excess to your local beekeepers who will be looking for packages.  Your nucs has the added benefit of being local overwintered stock that has shown it can survive a Wisconsin winter.

The odd thing about winter nucs is that their survival rate seems to be higher and also that they build up faster in the spring than many full-size hives.    It is speculated the young vigorous queens and smaller hive volume to warm during the spring brood buildup are the reasons for this performance.  From my limited experience with utilizing winter nucs, I can also say they appear less likely to swarm and produce an equal or larger honey crop than overwintered hives.  

The only thing better than getting your hives through winter is also raising your replacement stock from your own bees.  Doing that you graduate from a basic beehaver to a full fledged beekeeper who has a sustainable hobby.  This can then become a step along the path to having a varroa resistant Wisconsin/Midwest bee. 

Saturday, October 5, 2019


Here is a link on a discussion about the drawbacks of the design of the Langstroth hive.  No answers, but at least someone is thinking.


While retrieving a queen to aid a beekeeper with a queenless hive earlier this week I noted that this queen was still laying eggs.  I assume other hives in our area are about at the same stage.  If this queen quit laying the next day (unlikely) that would mean there will still be brood emerging in the fourth week of October.  Guess who will also still be emerging!  Our nemesis the varroa mite.

For that reason I will be treating my hives twice more with oxalic acid vapor; once in late October and again about the second week of November.  Oxalic acid vapor treatments reportedly kill 95% of phoretic mites.  I am banking on the November treatment being after the last brood has emerged and will clean up the hive, as far as varroa is concerned, prior to winter.  Even if there is still a little brood present the varroa mite levels will be lessened.  NOTE: Hives with Italian queens can still be raising brood through mid to late December.

Oxalic acid vapor is also relatively easy on the queen so it is highly unlikely the queen would be harmed.  I followed the same late season oxalic acid treatment last year and had 88% winter survival and therefore consider the risk to minimal.  As they say "pay your money and take your chances".

This week I am in process of removing any remaining feeders. However, I will probably keep a few on through Thursday.  Just prior to then we will have two "warm" days with temperatures getting to the low 60's F.   However, the days and nights are getting gradually colder.  I see the bees in some hives and nucs have been clustering overnight.  Syrup uptake is consequently greatly reduced.

Saturday, September 28, 2019


September is drawing to a close.  We have passed the fall equinox and now nights are getting longer than the days.  Forage, other than a small amount of asters, is about nonexistent.  Robbing of weak hives or hives with too large an entrance will be occurring.  What’s happening in your hives?

The bees will only be venturing forth for orientation flights or to gather propolis.  You will be seeing them sealing cracks and plugging entrances in preparation for winter.

The first week of October is a good time to assess the strength of your hives.  I do this by lifting the inner cover and counting the seams between frames that a filled with bees.  8-10 seams equates to a strong hive.  6-7 seams a medium hive.  5 or less is a weak hive that needs immediate attention.  Weak hives usually do not make it through the winter.  Two weak hives can be combined after eliminating one of the queens.  Weak hives can appear to be strong based on activity at the hive entrance.  But this is usually from robber bees entering and exiting.  That’s why it’s a good reason to lift the inner cover and actually see what is happening.  Weak hives this time of year can also indicate high varroa populations.  If you haven’t treated for mites, please do it now, so that your infected hive won’t contribute mites to your neighbor’s hives.   

The opportunity for feeding underweight hives is also drawing to a close.   If need be you should get the feeder in place.  Syrup can always be added to the feeder in the dark.   Although sugar syrup may not freeze during October the bees will be reluctant to ingest cold syrup.  Consequently, the syrup may be consumed only during a few hours on a warm afternoon.

The entrance reducer should presently be on and with the 4 inch opening regulating bees movement.  This helps maintain hive warmth and aids the dense of the aid against robbers and hornets.

Mouse guards should go on at about the time of the first frost.  The first frost will trigger the mice to begin looking for winter quarters.  Each week sees overnight temperatures drifting downwards.

The ratio of phoretic mites to bees is also rapidly increasing at this time of year as the hive reduces brood rearing and the hive population declines.  Mid to late October is a good time to do an oxalic vapor treatment or an Apiguard treatment.  Throughout the winter the fewer mites in the hive the better. 

Wednesday, September 18, 2019


For several weeks I have been placing bottles of mixed sugar syrup outside my side door.  Up until today these bottles have not attrached the attention of raccoons, hornets or bees.  Today the bees found this source of "nectar".  Before placing the jugs outside I rinse them with water to ensure they are not sticky.  These jugs are more than 1/4 mile from my hives. 

So a word to the wise.  Make sure your entrance reducers are installed; probably the 4 inch opening is OK.  There is evidently very little nectar available in the field.

Monday, September 16, 2019


The monthly ECWBA club meeting will be held this Saturday, September 21st at the Caestecker Public Library in Green Lake.   9:30AM is the scheduled start time.  However, you can arrive early and join others in exchanging ideas.


Its now mid-September.  It’s easy to see the days are getting shorter and nights are cooling down.  The amount of forage, both nectar and pollen, is rapidly declining.  The bees will soon be living on their stored honey.    The hive has also greatly cut back on brood rearing.  

In the last week of August, I removed most of the honey from my hives.  I did leave a few supers in place if they had full, but uncapped, cells in the hopes the bees will complete their work and dry and cap the honey cells.  These remaining honey supers will be removed the 3rd week of September.

During the first week of September a number of local beekeepers banded together for an extraction party.  In total we extracted honey to fill 34 5 gallon buckets.  We compared notes and a number of us reported that this year was our best ever as far as the honey harvest, while several others said it was their worst.  Go figure.  We are all located within 5 miles of each other.  Also, a few reported that many packages did not build properly and store a surplus.  Overwintered hives had a definite advantage.

This past week I did my second fall mite treatment.  The first, using formic acid pads, was done in late July.  This past week I did a one-time oxalic acid vapor treatment.  The oxalic acid treatment will be repeated in mid-October and early November.  By early October I am hoping even the Italian queens will have stopped brood rearing.   Thus making the final oxalic acid vapor treatment 100% effective and putting the hives in excellent shape for surviving winter.

As part of my goal to be a sustainable beekeeper (ie not having to buy package bees every spring) I  made up a large number of 5 over 5 double winter nucs.  Last year I had excellent (greater than 90%) survival of winter nucs.  If the same occurs this winter I will have strong spring nucs to replace any hive losses.  In late August and September, I have been feeding these winter nucs in order that the upper box will have at least 25 pounds of honey/sugar syrup.  NOTE: I will be writing another article about winter nucs later this winter. 

My observation from this past summer was that hives, begun with winter nucs, outperformed both overwintered hives and new packages.  There could be several reasons for this outcome.  During the late winter population build-up, the winter nucs have less cold air volume which could help with brood rearing.   The winter nucs all had young queens, while the overwintered hive queens were in their 2nd or 3rd winter.  The vigor of a 1st year queen cannot be ignored.  Finally, the hives started with winter nucs seemed to not swarm while many overwintered hives swarmed.   Hives that swarmed usually had 0 or 1 super of honey.  Overwintered hives yielded 2 to 3 supers of honey.  Hives started from winter nucs yielded 2 to 4 supers.  This last observation may be a fluke.  I will continue to track the performance of winter nucs hives in the future.  

My queen rearing and mating efforts ended in late August.  I am in the process of combining the mating nucs with other hives or winter nucs.  

Several non-performing (ie no honey for the summer) hives had their queens replaced.  

What’s ahead for the remainder of September and October?

-If not done already I will be downsizing the entrance reducer to the 4 inch opening.

-Next week I will be removing the remaining honey supers. 

-Next I will evaluate each hive.  Does it need feeding?  Is it queenright?  Hives with little honey stores will be fed.  Hives not queen right will be combined with other stronger hives.

-The wax and propolis buildup on queen excluders will be removed prior to storage.  Do NOT leave a queen excluder in the hive.  It may trap the queen below the excluder when the cluster has moved above it.

-Any unused equipment will be inspected, repaired and painted prior to storage so that it will be ready for use next spring.

-Mouse guards and hive wrap will not be installed until early November. 

Sunday, August 25, 2019

END OF AUGUST by beekeeper Fred

August is winding down.  If you haven’t completed your mite treatments, you are putting your hives in danger for fall or winter failure.  Git er done!  This can’t be stressed enough!

I completed my mite treatments with formic acid pads the last week of July.  However, I will be following up with oxalic acid vapor treatments in mid-September, mid-October and early November.   Overkill?  Maybe, but this process netted me 88% survival last winter. 

I just completed removal of the honey supers; well most of them.  Because this August was wetter and cooler than normal, I am finding uncapped honey in the top super.  These top supers I am leaving in place and will be doing a second round of honey super removal in the second half of September.  Even though its late in August there seems to be a honey flow occurring; maybe a rarely occurring goldenrod flow.  Hopefully by the end of September the honey will be capped.  If not, I will use the honey for making mead before the honey begins uncontrolled fermenting and turns into honey vinegar.


With the honey supers removed you will need to assess each hive on its ability to make it through winter.  First, verify the hive is queenright.  If not, either requeen the hive or combine the hive with another weak hive.    If it is queenright, is the population strong enough to make it through winter?  To evaluate the hive partially lift, by tilting the upper brood chamber from the lower brood chamber.  Look in the gap.  The bees should be between the frame gaps of at least seven (7) of the ten (10) frames on both the lower and upper brood boxes.  At this time, also evaluate the weight of the upper brood chamber.  The upper brood chamber should weigh approximately 80 to 90 pounds and be almost entirely honey.  If underweight now is the time to feed the hive 2 to 1 sugar syrup or as an alternate high fructose corn syrup.   Feeding will initiate additional brood rearing and may increase the population to an acceptable level.  Or if you have a strong hive you could steal a frame of capped brood and move it to the weak hive.   See the Nature’s Nectar blog ( for more on feeding

A hint on evaluating the weight of the upper brood chambers.  First pull the frames and verify they are honey packed; except for maybe the center 1 or 2 frames.  Each filled frame weighs roughly 10 pounds.  Replace the frames.  Now lift the brood chamber.  Remember the feeling of the full box.  Lower the box back into place. Now as an alternate, just tilt the upper brood chamber.  You only need to lift on the front or side of the box.  You will be only lifting half of the box weight.  Remember this feeling.  From then on you can evaluate the boxes by this method.  It’s a lot easier on your back!  

Those of you utilizing 8 frame boxes or medium boxes will need to make your own guidelines.  But you will still need roughly 80-90 pounds of honey for the hive to s.fely make it through a Wisconsin winter.   Our ECWBA President targets for a full upper brood chamber and one full medium honey super.

If needed, feed your hives now while the weather is still warm.  First, the bees will not drink cold syrup.  Second, it takes time for the bees to evaporate the water out of the syrup and raise its sugar concentration to 80% as in honey.  Third, with cooler weather the bees will go into cluster at night and will not be moving the syrup from the feeder to the comb thus greatly slowing the process.   September is the time for feeding.  October temperatures may be too low.  

After the honey harvest I install an entrance reducer.  If there are no yellow jacket hornets present, I utilize the four inch wide opening.  If hornets are present, I use the one inch wide opening.   We may still get hot days in September.  You may need to increase the one inch opening to four inches in order to allow the bees to cool the hive.  

Winter is still a long way off.  DO NOT place hive wraps or BeeCozy’s on the hive yet. 

Thursday, August 22, 2019


The honey harvesting season is drawing to a close.  One of the associated tasks is to clean the beeswax and propolis off the queen excluders.  The following method works with steel excluders.  DO NOT TRY THIS WITH PLASTIC EXCLUDERS.

Beeswax melts at the relatively low temperature of 140F.  By using a propane torch the beeswax rapidly melts without causing harm to the steel excluder.  I was able to clean up 4 excluders in about 5 minutes.  

 Typical beeswax coated queen excluder. 
 Propane torch. 
Same excluder after cleaning. 

Plastic excluders can be cleaned in the dead of winter.  The beeswax gets brittle at cold temperature, but the plastic remains flexible.  Simply set the excluders outdoors overnight.  In the morning flex the excluder and the brittle wax should flake right off.  

Wednesday, August 14, 2019

MEETING REMINDER--This Saturday, August 17th

There will be a club meeting at the Rushford Meadery this Saturday, August 17th, at 9:30AM. There will be a short discussion period and then we will extract the frames of honey from the two club hives.  If you want to extract your honey afterwards please contact Pam to get your needs on the schedule.  

Tuesday, July 30, 2019


Yesterday and today I have been treating my hives with FormicPro.   I also specifically choose this week because of the milder temperatures, which slow the formic acid vapor release. Usually the bees just buzz a little louder when the pads are put in and give the pads a wide berth.  Yesterday I saw an unusual reaction.  About 15 minutes after I treated a hive it seemed that all of the bees exited the hive and then formed a beard beneath the outer cover.  Its now been 24 hours and the majority still haven't gone back in.  I've treated about 40 hives in the last two days and no other hive reacted this way.  

UPDATE--The bees went back in the hive after 3 days.  A week later I checked to verify if the queen was OK.  She wasn't in the hive.  In fact there was no eggs, uncapped or capped brood in the hive.  That means this hive had gone queenless at least 3 weeks ago; prior to the formic acid treatment.  Maybe since the bees were queenless they had no reluctance to abandon the queen in the hive.  


July is winding down and August will soon arrive in central Wisconsin.  Typically, average temperatures will be at their highest of the year and rainfall at its lowest in August.

All beekeeping is a local event and in my area the honey flow has essentially stopped.  In the last two weeks of July I have not had to add a single honey super in my apiary.   In previous years I had always felt the honey flow was 95% complete by about July 15th.   This year appears to be no different.  Since I had to temporarily remove my honey supers while applying formic acid pads to my hives during the last week of July, I also took that opportunity to record the amount of honey present in those honey supers.  I will be comparing those values with the amount of honey I obtain at the end of August when I will be removing my honey supers for processing.   I will report on the additional honey, if any, I obtain in September.   As I said all beekeeping is local and you may get different results.  Some areas in the ECWBA area have purple loosestrife which provides a good nectar flow in August.  This invasive species has not reached my area yet.  At best the bees will probably just break even during the month of August; consuming as much as they bring in.

Follow this link to see how the honey flow has dwindled to nothing in the Minneapolis area.

If you attend our club meetings or read the letters from our club president then you know that August, September and October are the most critical time in getting your hives ready for winter.  Mite levels MUST be knocked down in late July or early August so that the nurse bees can be relatively mite and virus free.  These bees can then raise disease free winter bees (fat bees).   Weather predictions for early August look to be acceptable for the use of formic acid for mite control.  Get it done!  If using other mite treatments make sure you remove your honey first.

After you complete your mite treatments then you need to evaluate the condition of each hive for its ability to survive winter.  Is it queenright?  Formic acid mite treatments are known to kill a small percentage of queens.  Also, many beekeepers neglect to inspect their hives while the honey supers are installed.  Verify there are both eggs and uncapped brood about 3 weeks after the formic acid treatment, which signifies there is a queen present in the hive.

Is the hives population sufficiently large?  Ideally, if you look between the top and bottom brood chambers you should see bees between every frame.  This is the time to combine two weak hives if needed.

Is there enough honey in the hive for winter?  The upper brood chamber should weigh roughly 90 lbs.  Visually, as a minimum, the 3 outer frames (six total) should be solid honey.  If not, feed the hive 2 to 1 sugar syrup until they will take no more.   Feeding needs to be done early in the fall.  The bees need to process the syrup and convert it to honey like (>80%) sugar concentrations.  This takes time and warm weather.  Wait too long and your hive may not be able to process the syrup.  Try to get this done before the end of September.  By October temperatures will limit the processing of syrup to only a few hours per day.

Watch your hives entrances in August and September.  With the nectar dearth that normally occurs at this time robbing may happen.  Robbing screens or downsizing the entrance width may be necessary.

Some beekeepers arbitrarily replace queens in the fall.  Young queens have a higher winter survival rate and also have a stronger spring buildup. 

Tuesday, July 23, 2019


As you can see from yesterday's post I have been doing my late July/early August mite treatments.  Remember most mite treatments require the honey supers be removed first.  Formic acid treatments (MAQS or FormicPro) are the exception, but they do requirements that temperatures be less than 92F.  The next few weeks looking to be acceptable.

Follow this link for more recommendations on mite treatments.

By the way the "formic" swarm in yesterday's photo still has not re-entered the hive.

I have also noticed the flight activity from my hives has slowed considerably.  This is probably do to a lessened availability of nectar.

Monday, July 22, 2019

NEVER SEEN THIS BEFORE by beekeeper Fred

Yesterday and today I have been treating my hives with FormicPro.   I also specifically choose this week because of the milder temperatures, which slow the formic acid vapor release. Usually the bees just buzz a little louder when the pads are put in and give the pads a wide berth.  Yesterday I saw an unusual reaction.  About 15 minutes after I treated a hive it seemed that all of the bees exited the hive and then formed a beard beneath the outer cover.  Its now been 24 hours and the majority still haven't gone back in.  I've treated about 40 hives in the last two days and no other hive reacted this way.  

Yep, that's all bees.

Wednesday, July 17, 2019


If there is sufficient rain and the county road mowing crews don't hit your area, the roadsides can provide nectar for your bees.  Here are a few of the more common roadside flowers.

A mix of white sweet clover and wild chicory 

Crown vetch

Wild Daylilies-never seen a bee on these

Sunday, July 7, 2019


Yesterday beekeeper Gerard reported a swarm issued from one of his hives and parked itself in a high tree.  He tried a bait hive, but eventually it flew off to the wilds.

Yesterday during a routine drive around inspection of hives I noted a swarm had occupied one of my top bar hives.

Today I captured a 5 lb swarm after a neighbor informed me of its presence.

I think all my swarms issued from overwintered hives; none from package.

So during your biweekly hive inspection make sure to look for queen cells and remove them unless you don't mind your hives swarming,

Swarming seems to be lasting longer through the summer this year.  Since swarming usually only occurs during the nectar flow, this may be a good sign for a longer and stronger nectar flow this summer.  We can always hope for the best.

Thursday, July 4, 2019


Its been a different spring and summer so far.  Cool and wet.  Still some colonies are making honey.  Normally the bees do not make much honey in the second half or July and August.  But who knows the high moisture levels may extend nectar gathering into August.  At least we can hope that will happen.  At our July meeting I suspect we will be talking about normal years when the honey harvest is done in early August and controlling mites populations soon thereafter.

The July meeting will be 9:30AM at the Caestecker Public Library in Green Lake.  


Sunday, June 30, 2019

JUNE REPORT by beekeeper Fred

2019 has definitely been a different and difficult year for beekeeping. Extreme winter low temperatures.  Then spring turned out to be cooler and wetter than normal.   But in June the weather has warmed up and the amount of rain declined a little allowing the hives to strengthen.

New hives established with package bees are still struggling to fully develop.  Several of my hives established with package bees on May 1st are just now putting a splash of nectar in their honey supers.  The cooler weather of May and June slowed brood development probably by restricting the amount of the brood nest area the bees were able to cover and maintain warmth.   

Nectar from clover and alfalfa has been readily available in June.  Overwintered hives have had no trouble filling from 2 to 4 supers providing they didn’t swarm.  A friend with a hive on a scale reported a 5 pound weight gain in one day.  If we can only see more days like that.  This nectar will continue to be available until mid to late July when rainfall usually declines and growth of these plants slows. 

Of course, the strong overwintered hives were following their natural instinct and decided to reproduce; ie. swarm.  I think I had from 6 to 8 hives swarm.  Luckily, I was able to catch 4 of these swarms.  Two of them successfully reestablished themselves.  One I had to requeen when the virgin queen did not return from her mating flight.  The fourth, a smaller after-swarm, was combined with another hives when its queen did not begin laying after two weeks.  Swarms can be headed by either the old queen or a virgin queen.  The old queen begins laying within a few days.  A virgin queen needs roughly 2 weeks to get mated and between laying.   The other swarms got away into the wild.  I only saw one bee check out one of my two swarm traps.  All of the overwintered hives that swarmed were already putting honey into the honey supers.  After swarming this activity stopped for roughly four to five weeks while the hives slowly rebuilt their populations.  I hope the honey flow is still going when they regain their strength.

In June I applied a 50% strength formic acid mite treatment; the only treatment permitted while honey supers are on the hive. 

With the warm up in June I was finally get to get a little success in raising queens.  But since it takes roughly 30 days to raise and mate queens, mated queens are just now becoming available. 

What’s ahead for July?

1)      Continue to monitor that your hives are queenright.

2)      If the honey flow remains strong you can expect swarming to continue although historically it tapers off after the summer solstice.

3)      Monitor your honey supers. 

a.       Add supers when the current super is 75% filled.

b.       Bottom supering is reported to encourage the bees to gather more nectar.

c.       Bees tend to not fill the outer frames.  To make more efficient use of your equipment, when the center frames are filled then rotate the outer frames into the center of the super.

4)      By late July the queen will begin reducing egg laying.  Phoretic mite levels will spike up when this happens.  By monitoring phoretic mite levels you can determine which hives are controlling mites and which are not.  It is recommended that hives with higher mite levels should have their queens replaced with mite resistant queens. 

5)      Make a rough estimate of your coming honey harvest.  Do you have sufficient jars and labels?

6)      If your mite control method can be used with the honey supers in place you can consider a full strength mite treatment the last week of July.  Remember that most mite treatments have high temperature limitations and finding an appropriate weather window can be difficult.  High temperatures increase the outgassing rates of formic acid treatments and could cause harm to the bees.    

Saturday, June 29, 2019


We will be seeing hotter weather in the next few days, weeks and months.  Strong hives will have bees hanging on the landing and face of the hive.  They do this to reduce the temperature inside the hive.  Too high temperatures are hard on the brood.  They will also be fanning at the entrance to move cool air through the hive.  The large groups on bees on the face and landing board are call bearding.  It is normal behavior.  Bearding usually occurs in late afternoon or early at night when the field bees return.  During the night as air temperatures fall most bees usually re-enter the hive.
Photo of fanning.  Heads pointed in, tails out.  You can hear the hum of beating wing, 
Photo of bearding.

If you want to help the bees you can place a small piece of wood between the edges of the outer and inner covers.  By breaking the seal between the outer and inner cover hot air in the hive can rise through the center hole of the inner cover and exit through the gap you created.  I usually use a small of scrap 1/4 or 3/8 inch plywood to raise the outer cover.  A piece about 2 by 6 inches placed at the front of the hive will tilt the outer slightly.

Here you can see the small piece of wood installed and creating a gap between the outer and inner covers.  

Some beekeepers use a slatted bottom board to reduce bearding.

Bees also use water to provide evaporative cooling for the hive.  Hives should be within a 100 yards of a water source.  If you place a water source in your apiary make sure there are enough floating objects the bees can land on so they don't drown.

Tuesday, June 25, 2019


Follow this link to a good discussion on how to add honey supers.


Some plants help both honey bees and monarch butterflies. Actually the monarch is helped three times by the milk weed.  It feeds the monarch caterpillar, acts as a shelter for the cocoon and the flowers feed the monarch itself.

I counted six monarch caterpillars in about a 10 by 10 foot area.  You can see the caterpillar is making a meal of this leaf. 

Friday, June 21, 2019


The honey flow is going full throttle.  Clover, alfalfa, basswood, trefoil, and crown vetch are all in bloom.  The black locust bloom has come and gone.  Strong hives are packing away nectar and capping it once the water content is reduced below 20%.  Yes, somehow the bees know how to gauge the water/sugar content of the honey.  On a few overwintered hives the bees are starting to work their fourth honey super!  The key words in that sentence were “few” and “overwintered”.  Unfortunately, it takes work to get all hives to perform in that manner.

This honey bounty also has its downside.  When the supers are on the hives it becomes more difficult to conduct hive inspections and to apply mite treatments due to the added labor of removing and replacing those heavy honey supers.  The honey flow also urges the bees to reproduce.  Consequently many overwintered hives build swarm cells that a lazy beekeeper like me does not always remove.  Based on checks I have done it appears that up to 6 of my hives have swarmed.  Luckily, I was able to capture and hive 4 of the swarms.    However, since it takes a hive about a month to rebuild its strength, a hive that has swarmed misses out on storing a lot nectar from the honey flow.  I estimate that each swarmed hive costs the beekeeper about 2 supers (60 lbs) of honey.  So do as I say, not as I do.  Inspect your hives every 2 weeks and remove swarm cells if you want to deter swarming.  Most hobbyist beekeepers never realize their hive has swarmed and wonder why “their bees” do not gather as much honey as their neighbors hives.   Our club President has reminded me that with the passing of the summer solstice the urge for reproductive swarming is reduced. 

During the second week of June my apiary was inspected by the Wisconsin state apiary inspector.  His primary focus was in finding American Foulbrood, European Foulbrood, Hive Beetles, and Varroa.  My apiary had no adverse findings.  Mite counts were in the 0-1 range.  He did identify two other minor diseases; “snotty mite brood’ and “Sacbrood”.   These two minor maladies are usually not treated and strong hives will cure themselves. 

Comparing hives is interesting.  Overwintered hives (that haven’t swarmed) are now busy packing away honey.  The hives started with overwintered nucs this spring are also storing honey, but only about ½ the amount of the overwintered hives at this point.  My mid-April packages have, at this point, just put a minor splash of honey into the supers.  The May 1st packages are still struggling to populate the 2 brood chambers.  This shows of importance of keeping your hives alive through the winter.   Not only does it save you the expense of buying a new package, but overwintered hives also greatly outperform packages in spring buildup and honey production.  The key to winter survival is: (you guessed it) VARROA MITE CONTROL

This past week I treated all hives with a 50% dose of FormicPro in order to keep the mite populations in check.   Note: Formic acid is the only mite control method approved for use while the honey supers are in place. 

The main honey flow will continue in our area for 3 to 4 more weeks.  After mid-July the nectar flow really tails off. 

To take maximum advantage of this flow:

1)      Make sure to add an empty super when the present super is about 75% filled.

2)      Rotate outside frames into the center of the super.  The bees tend to concentrate on the center frames and sometimes do not fill outside frames.

3)      Adding the new super below the filled super (called “bottom supering”). This reportedly stimulates the bees and they increase their honey storage efforts.

4)      Keep removing swarm cells until mid-July.  At that time the weakening nectar flow lessens the urge to swarm. 

Tuesday, June 11, 2019


This Saturday, June 15th, the club's monthly meeting will be held at the Caestecker Public Library in Green Lake.  See you there.

Sunday, June 9, 2019


Public outreach is one of the objectives of the ECWBA.  In the past week the ECWBA discussed pollinators and beekeeping in Westfield and also at Fond du Lac's Walleye Weekend.  Thank you to club members that participated.

 Mark and Patty in Westfield
 Al, Patty and Mark at Walleye Weekend


Black locust trees have decided to bloom this year. This is about 9 days behind their normal schedule.  The bloom will last for about 10 days.  Black locust can provide a lot of nectar.  Be sure that you have room in your honey supers to accommodate this nectar.  Check your honey supers every few days to ensure there is room for this bounty.  With a little luck we will be having a few days of sunshine which will allow the bees to work these short lived blossoms.

 Big stand of black locust starting to bloom. 
Closeup of black locust blossoms. 


Follow this link for a listing of bee related projects being worked by the USDA.

Tuesday, June 4, 2019


Tuesday, June 4th

Beautiful bee day.  Sunny with a light breeze.  The bees were out.  For some reason the bees were very temperamental and began harassing me as soon as I entered the apiary.  Not sure of the reason for this, but suspect it is the high humidity and a lack of abundant nectar to keep them occupied. 

I used today to check my nine (9) hives on the edge of a marshy area.  I verified each hive was queenright as I did my inspections.  At my next visit in 2 weeks I will also be treating them with a ½ dose of Formic Pro.

Hive DD-this was a hive started with an overwintered nucleus colony.  Inspection showed a strong colony fully occupying the 2 brood chamber boxes and already putting honey in the 1st honey super.

Hive E-this hive was started with a package on April 19th.  I added 3 frames of capped brood approximately 3 weeks ago from an overcrowded hive.  Three weeks after this bee transfusion the colony occupies the entire two brood boxes, but has not yet entered the honey super added last week. 

Hive YY-this hive was started with a package on April 19th.  It did not get a bee transfusion like Hive E above.  It has only grown to a full bottom box and 4 frames in the upper brood chamber.  I topped off the syrup feeder to speed their growth.  

Hive M-this was an overwintered hive with an Ankle Biter queen.  It has filled 7 of 9 frames of the 1st honey super.  I moved the two empty outside frames into the center positions.  The bees were also working on the frames in the 2nd honey super.   I added a 3rd super to make sure they don’t get ahead of me.  

Hive AAA-this is another overwintered hive.  It had required spring feeding but is now starting to place honey in the 1st honey super.

Hive EE-this is an overwintered Saskatraz hive and is putting honey into the 2nd honey super.  

Hive OO-this was an overwintered hive with Saskatraz queen.  It swarmed several weeks ago.  It has about 7 queen cells.  Last week I saw the replacement virgin queen, but this week I couldn’t find her or any eggs.  There is still capped brood that is emerging so there is not an immediate danger of laying workers.  She gets one more week to make an appearance or I see eggs and open brood.  After that I will requeen the hive. 

Hive PP-this was an overwintered Russian hive.  It has just started to put honey in the 1st super. 

Hive WW-this hive was started with an overwintered package.  Already putting honey in the first super. 

As you can see there is a wide variation between hives.  It pays to keep notes of your observations so you can determine if individual hives are growing or failing. 

Another interesting observation is that the hives started with overwintered nucs are greatly outperforming even early package hives.   This and the fact that the overwintered nucs don’t cost me anything makes them an interesting method to better my apiary sustainability.